by Joanna Jones
I’ve had the dream of living in the wine country and making wine since I was quite young. I was born and raised in the San Francisco area and would frequently take trips to the Napa Valley which was still in its infancy when I started going there. We would stay in a quaint Bed and Breakfast in the heart of the wine region and go to the picturesque vineyards to tour and taste their wines. Valle de Guadalupe, the wine country of Baja, Mexico reminds me so much of those days.
Last summer I took the wine making workshop offered at La Escuelita in El Porvenir, and started fulfilling my dream. The future of my wine would not have been possible without the expert guidance of Thomas Egli who patiently worked and guided me through the entire process and also to Alberto, who took over for Thomas along the way. I believe one of the secrets of this wine is that it contains a small percentage of Nebbiolo. That’s where the magic has come from.
My intention was to make Nebbiolo with grapes from a local ranch. Two days before harvest the birds DEVOURED the crop! They kindly left me two small boxes, and I insisted on using them. I had two options of what type of grape to purchase to blend with my miniscule amount of Nebbiolo. I chose the Zinfandel grape over the Petite Syrah. It seemed to me the flavors would blend the best. It’s was a long process getting the grapes to ferment. The fermentation would stop and we would need to jump start them. It took a long time to reach the barrel. I was the first student from the class to start making wine, and I think the last, or close to it, to put it in the barrel. Thomas would say, “One must be patient with Zinfandel”.
I was invited to the Spring Wine and Art festival at La Casa Vieja last Sunday, April 18, 2010. Thom Toscano organized the presentation of 16 wines from the artisan winemakers, giving wine lovers the opportunity to be the judge in a blind tasting.
Imagine my amazement when I received First Place!
It was one of the most, or maybe even the most, exciting day of my life. Never in my wildest dreams did I consider the possibility of being in the running with my wine. I was doing it for the fun of it. Before the event I was planning to leave the wine in the barrel for a couple more months. Now I am reconsidering!
I can’t wait to make more!!!
Joanna Jones can be reached via email at: joann.joannajones@gmail.com
Also visit her real estate sales web site at: www.BajaStyleRealEstate.com
Monday, April 26, 2010
Joanna Jones Wine Wins Best of Red Contest at La Casa Vieja Event
Friday, October 10, 2008
Weekend Wine Warriors
What does a mama get when she raises a plastic surgeon, an x-ray technician, an architect, and adds a soon-to-be oenologist grandson, and turns them loose in a winery? Serious, muscular, deep, rich, thigh-slapping red vino on the dinner table, that’s what!
What does a Swiss-French oceanographer do in his spare time? Other than: rescuing damaged olive trees, growing organic produce, managing a farmer’s market on his property, and raising chickens and Charolais cattle? He makes lip-smacking vino!
In this installment, we’ll take a look at two smaller, focused, highly artisanal Valle de Guadalupe wineries producing the good juice.
In 1994, trace hermanos, Roberto, Abel, and Bernardo Lafarge began planting grapevines in the upper Valle under the name Vinedos Lafarga. Concentrating on four heavyweight red varietals, Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, Syrah, and interestingly, Nebbiolo, a varietal originally from northwest Bella Italia (think Barolos, and Gattinaras).
Loving the evenings cooled by marine breezes, and warm to hot days, the grapes thrived. Initially, production was miniscule, because consistent pruning made for small, but highly concentrated, lots. Now up to only about 1000 cases, Lafarge would have to be considered a small player in the game, but it would hard to find a group of reds with more power, extract, complexity, depth and flavor.
We were honored to be invited as the first ever visitors to their winery. There is no formal tasting room yet, so we stood among the barrels and we were treated some of the finest juice of the trip. A” wine thief” (a long glass tube winemakers use to draw barrel samples) was employed to taste upcoming blends. The smart thing to do would be to take a small sip and dump the rest but they were too delicious to waste. Loved ‘em all. The brothers have made two special blends named after their parents. I thought the “DJ 1905”, a 2004 Cab/Merlot/Syrah a knockout! (father Don Jose, born in 1905). Janet liked the more approachable NV Merlot/ Cab blend, “Esther” (after mama).
Don Jose and Esther have much to be proud of.
Antonio Bedan arrived in the Valle at the ripe old age of two. His father, Henri, had come to the Valle to start an olive oil business based on the abundance of olive trees thriving there. He selected a 2500 acre property “El Mogor”. Among the olive trees, Henri planted some vine shoots given to him by a friend. So, you could say, Antonio grew up in the wine business, and in the European tradition, wine was served with daily meals, but it was many years before he got the “wine bug”. A trip to
Only two types of wine are produced: a tightly wound, intense,
Antonio oversees every aspect of his 600 case per year operation, from crushing the grapes to pasting on the labels. He had the labels designed using old print type from a print shop in
His sister Natalia lives on the property and operates a weekly impromptu farmers market on the porch of the main house. As active as her brother, she has organized protests against proposed housing subdivisions, and other large scale intrusions into the Valle.
The recently completed wine cellar is stunning; made from rocks dug from the property and surrounding area. Armed with a generous glass of the red blend, we repaired there, sat around on the barrels and talked shop, among other things. A true Renaissance man, fluent in many subjects, he is old school, deplores “creeping gentrification”, and dumbing down of society.
Viva Antonio!
Visit www.vinoclubsma.com for information on Mexican Wines
Bordeaux in Baja - Chateaux Camou
How many people in their 40s dream about what they would like to do when they retire (@ 65+/-) and pull it off right on schedule?
The goal? Nothing less than world class wine! Anything less was not an option.
Now the hard work began. Six months later, a winery in the
The area was settled by Russian immigrants early in the 19th century, who dry farmed wheat and some still call the area “Valle de Trigo”, or
Ch. Camou sits in what is called Canada del Trigo, surrounded by about 95 acres of
There are three levels of wine at Camou. Leading off at the top is the El Gran Vino Tinto, a classic Bordeaux/Meritage blend of Cab, Merlot, and Cab Franc. After fermentation, it spends about three months in used oak barrels, then into new French oak for about 15 months. The Vinas de Camou line includes a “Fume” blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) and a Chardonnay. The Flor de Guadalupe is the “value” line, and includes a Zinfandel, a Blanc de Blanc, and a “Clarete” (a
Alvarez-Morphy feels he has achieved his dream of world class wines. With gold medals from the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in 2000, highest honors in “Wines of the
The history of Ch. Camou shows how small-to-medium producers are taking the wine making art in
Federico Valentine had no idea what awaiting him when, clutching his 1874 edition of “Traite Sur Le Vin” (Treatise on Wine), he fled post war
With her family’s help, the newlyweds bought a small ranch near
Volume increased and so did the family. Federico’s sons Hector and Gontran opened a general store in
The family had been discussing the idea of creating a family winery, so they decided to “take the plunge”. Things began slowly and very low-tech. Wine was produced in an old garage with rustic, manually operated equipment. The whole family pitched in. Cavas Valmar was born, and off and, if not running, walking. The first production came in 1985 with a whopping 350 cases of a wide scope of varietals: Barbera, Muscatel, Lambrusco, and Nebbiolo, to name a few. With the profits, they began to upgrade the equipment and expand production. Today, production has hit about 2000 cases coming out of about 50 acres of vineyards.
Cavas Valmar is dedicated to pushing the envelope on winemaking in
Bottled Up in The Baja
In this issue, we’ll plug you into two of the small, artisanal producers of the good juice from Mexico Lindo. Both have their operations in the
Roganto Winery (officially, “Vides Y Vinos Californianos”) is located in downtown
The very affable Antonio gives us a private tour (the winery is not open to the public) of a very modern, but modest sized winemaking operation. 1987 marked the first vintage (Antonio says “it was like a wine you might make in your garage”), of only about 200 cases which they just gave away to friends. The response was so positive “
Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo are the”stars” here. Deep, dark, packed with fat, intense, high extract flavors of blackberries, plums, walnuts, sweet oak, and spices, these beauties add new meaning to the word, “Wow”! Roganto bottles these reds separately and as blends.
Vino blancos were added to the product line in recent years. We tasted an absolutely delicious pair, a Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with honeysuckle aromas, flavors of melon and sweet spices, and a steely crisp, citrusy, non-oaked Montrachet-style Chardonnay that had a finish from here to Christmas!
Roganto Winery has it going! In a recent tasting held by top Mexican wine gurus, its Tempranillo was voted the 2nd best in the country!
Pau Pijoan Winery was a bit of a challenge to find. Not visible from the main road, no sign to mark the turn off on a dirt road leading to the winery. But hey, that’s why cell phones were invented! Finally, by “take[ing] the first left dirt road past the horse farm”, and “turn at the next dirt road”, we finally found
Pau Pijoan Aguade, a retired research veterinarian whose family roots go back to the
I noticed no vineyards the area, and wondered about that until
Mare (wife) is a robust Zinfandel blend of 2/3 Zin, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, with balance Merlot. Rich, flavorful, and intense with great mouthfeel and a long finish, she was a big glass of wine. Maybe she’s a big girl!
Silvana is a tasty blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Muscatel and offered pretty floral notes on a framework of crisp, clean flavors. A “patio wine”, made for easy sippin’ as an aperitif or with light foods.
Paulinha is a Beaujolais Noveau style blend of Zin, Petite Sirah, and Merlot and comes across that way. Light, fruity, with candy flavors, I found it to be a little bubble-gummy and innocuous. I’m sure Paula, the wines namesake, isn’t that way!
It shows to go you what is happening right here in Mexico Lindo!
Visit www.vinoclubsma.com for more info
In a Rut on the Ruta
The Ruta del Vino (wine route) is a 15 mile stretch of two lane blacktop running northeast out of the little town of
Any resemblance to urban living disappears fast. A herd of goats may amble across your path, or maybe a farmer with a cart filled with firewood may slow you down. Cows amble along on the side of the road looking for lunch. But slowing down will work to your benefit, because shortly after leaving El Sauzal behind you are in the Valle de Guadalupe, where 90% of the wine made in Mexico is produced.
Fifteen years ago, there were only about 15 wineries operating in the Valle; now the number is close to 40. They range from the big gun, L.A.Cetto, clocking in at just under a million cases annually of maybe 15 different varietals, to the small, artesanal operation producing a handful of cases of maybe only one varietal, most of which is consumed locally.
In this issue of focusing on the world of Vino Mexicano, we’ll zero in on a medium-sized operation, Adobe Guadalupe, and the big boy on the block, Cetto. One produces primarily vino tinto, the other a wide variety of offerings. We’ll examine others in future articles, so stay tuned!
Now, pause, take a deep breath . . . think high end juice. Think in the realm of Stag’s Leap, Opus One, Caymus, and others who make powerhouse reds.
Don Miller, a very successful
That was 10 years ago. Today it’s easy to feel the sense of spirituality and serenity at Adobe Guadalupe Winery and bed and breakfast. Low lying adobe buildings blend into the landscape. The theme of the winery is, appropriately, angels. Angels are everywhere. All the rooms in the B and B are named after angels. An old water tank that came with the property has sprouted wings and presides over 50 acres of vineyards planted to some ten different red varietals, from which Don produces 6,000 cases annually of four blends of
Don Angelo Cetto had no idea what lay ahead for him when, in the early 1920s, he left his native
His store, “
Angelo’s second son, Luis Agustin, inherited his father’s passion for the tradition of winemaking and began aggressively expanding distribution of Cetto wines, which now had grown into several styles and blends. More vineyard lands were brought into the fold, and by the early 90s, in the Valle de Guadalupe alone, over 2,400 acres of vineyards were producing quality wines.
Luis brought the famed oenologist Camillo Magoni on board in the mid 60s. Camillo immediately installed state-of-the-art technology and stainless steel fermentation equipment, a revolutionary improvement at that time. Camillo and Luis insisted that all managers and workers learn and employ the latest technologies in the production process. By the mid 70s, the revitalized winery was named L. A. Cetto.
Today, a third generation in the form of Luis’s son, Luis Alberto, continues the tradition. Twenty years after joining the firm, Luis Alberto has one goal: to grow as fast as possible and to occupy every market in the world. Currently, Cetto is in over 25 countries, and has won over 95 international prizes and medals.
The largest and probably the most powerful Mexican winery is set to face the future.
Dick Avery is a free lance writer and head sipper at VinoClubSMA, a wine club featuring boutique Mexican wines through free tastings. His website is www.vinoclubsma.com. He can be reached at vinoclubsma@gmail.com
The Grand Old Man of Mexican Wines -- Casa Madero
In 1575, the Spanish Crown appointed governor of then-to-be state of Coahuila, and the founder of
Shortly thereafter, in 1597, Felipe II of
The
In the 70s the Milmo family, who had been producing grapes normally used in brandy, (and still do a brisk brandy business selling primarily to markets in northern Europe), began to replant some of the vineyards with popular varietals such as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Most of the production each year still goes overseas, but Jose is anxious to shed the “Mexican Wine” label and actively markets more and more to restaurants. Currently, the product split is 60% brandies, 40% wine (thanks in no small part to Jose’s passion for wine!).
The mid 70s however, were not kind to Jose and Casa Madero. The dreaded phylloxera insect, whose favorite breakfast, luncheon and dinner entrĂ©e are the roots of grapevines, virtually wiped out the vineyards over a period of time. So each year, about 100 acres were replanted with vines shoots grafted from European varieties which were free from infection. It wasn’t ‘til 2003 that all the vineyards were replanted, this time with more careful selection of varieties best adapted to the climate. Today, over 1000 acres, with highly sophisticated irrigation systems, organically produce over 350000 cases annually. already making wine from indigenous vines at the Mission of Santa Maria
Since most Mexican wine drinkers favor European style wines, most Mexican wineries, including Casa Madero, tend to look to
Today, Jose continues to push the envelope on quality. Each year, he invites winemakers from all over the world to spend a sabbatical summer at the winery to exchange ideas on ways to make the best wines possible. He is determined to improve his wines, increase his presence in the national market, and show Mexican consumers what Casa Madero is made of. Having met him, and sensing his commitment, I have no doubt he’ll do it.
“Summertime with wine and the living is easy”.
Dick Avery is the head sipper at VinoClubSMA, a wine club devoted to the enjoyment of “boutique” Mexican wines through free tastings. He can be reached at vinoclubsma@gmail.com. Visit the website www.vinoclubsma.com.
Weekend Wine Warriors
What does a mama get when she raises a plastic surgeon, an x-ray technician, an architect, and adds a soon-to-be oenologist grandson, and turns them loose in a winery? Serious, muscular, deep, rich, thigh-slapping red vino on the dinner table, that’s what!
What does a Swiss-French oceanographer do in his spare time? Other than: rescuing damaged olive trees, growing organic produce, managing a farmer’s market on his property, and raising chickens and Charolais cattle? He makes lip-smacking vino!
In this installment, we’ll take a look at two smaller, focused, highly artisanal Valle de Guadalupe wineries producing the good juice.
In 1994, trace hermanos, Roberto, Abel, and Bernardo Lafarge began planting grapevines in the upper Valle under the name Vinedos Lafarga. Concentrating on four heavyweight red varietals, Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, Syrah, and interestingly, Nebbiolo, a varietal originally from northwest Bella Italia (think Barolos, and Gattinaras).
Loving the evenings cooled by marine breezes, and warm to hot days, the grapes thrived. Initially, production was miniscule, because consistent pruning made for small, but highly concentrated, lots. Now up to only about 1000 cases, Lafarge would have to be considered a small player in the game, but it would hard to find a group of reds with more power, extract, complexity, depth and flavor.
We were honored to be invited as the first ever visitors to their winery. There is no formal tasting room yet, so we stood among the barrels and we were treated some of the finest juice of the trip. A” wine thief” (a long glass tube winemakers use to draw barrel samples) was employed to taste upcoming blends. The smart thing to do would be to take a small sip and dump the rest but they were too delicious to waste. Loved ‘em all. The brothers have made two special blends named after their parents. I thought the “DJ 1905”, a 2004 Cab/Merlot/Syrah a knockout! (father Don Jose, born in 1905). Janet liked the more approachable NV Merlot/ Cab blend, “Esther” (after mama).
Don Jose and Esther have much to be proud of.
Antonio Bedan arrived in the Valle at the ripe old age of two. His father, Henri, had come to the Valle to start an olive oil business based on the abundance of olive trees thriving there. He selected a 2500 acre property “El Mogor”. Among the olive trees, Henri planted some vine shoots given to him by a friend. So, you could say, Antonio grew up in the wine business, and in the European tradition, wine was served with daily meals, but it was many years before he got the “wine bug”. A trip to
Only two types of wine are produced: a tightly wound, intense,
Antonio oversees every aspect of his 600 case per year operation, from crushing the grapes to pasting on the labels. He had the labels designed using old print type from a print shop in
His sister Natalia lives on the property and operates a weekly impromptu farmers market on the porch of the main house. As active as her brother, she has organized protests against proposed housing subdivisions, and other large scale intrusions into the Valle.
The recently completed wine cellar is stunning; made from rocks dug from the property and surrounding area. Armed with a generous glass of the red blend, we repaired there, sat around on the barrels and talked shop, among other things. A true Renaissance man, fluent in many subjects, he is old school, deplores “creeping gentrification”, and dumbing down of society.
Viva Antonio!
Visit www.VinoClubSMA.com for more info on wines in San Miguel de Allende


